Having completed 2 long distance walks in England and Wales we decided to head North of the border this year. The West Highland Way had been recommended and would also give us an opportunity to climb Ben Nevis. As it turned out we ended up in Fort William at the same time as the Fours group were there (they had gone specifically to climb The Ben). June had been chosen as the best time to go as we hoped to miss the worst of the dreaded midges, but at the same time be late enough in the year to benefit from some warm weather (on arriving in Fort William we were told that it had snowed a few days earlier).
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If you wish to move quickly to a particular day please select from below:
[Journey to Milngavie], [Day 1], [Day 2], [Day 3], [Day 4], [Day 5], [Day 6], [Day 7], [Ben Nevis]
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Journey to Milngavie
We caught the 10.29am train to Glasgow and arrived at 1.14pm.As we had time to
spare we decided to explore a little of Glasgow before continuing to Milngavie. Sauchiehall Street
sported a number of artists - painting on canvas taped to the pavement! We
admired the red sandstone buildings of the past and had a quick trip to the
river before returning to the station. Having just missed a train we had half an
hour to wait for the next one - Marie made good use of the time - making a cup of coffee!
Street artists in Sauchiehall Street
Exploring Sauchiehall Street
Red Sandstone buildings . . .
much nicer than the modern ones!
Glasgow Bridge - a replica of the bridge originally built here by Telford
South Portland Street Bridge, originally built in 1870
A memorial to those who went to Spain to fight against fascism from 1936 to 1939
Where's my banana?
Marie makes a cup of coffee as we wait for the next train
The start of 'The Way'
Milngavie Precinct clock - a 3-faced clock from Copland & Lye Department Store in Glasgow, re-erected in 1981
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Day 1: Milngavie to Drymen, 12 mls, 740 ft
We left Milngavie at 9.30am and walked initially through Mugdock Park where there
were numerous dog walkers. This was followed by 4 miles on a disused railway and
2 miles on a road. We had a couple of light showers but only needed umbrellas.
After exploring Drymen we had a half mile walk to the B & B, Bramblewood, which
was quite an upmarket establishment and to be recommended to others. The owner
gave us a lift back into the village where we had dinner at the Winnock Hotel.
Ready to start the walk - only 95 miles to go!
Another view of the clock in the precinct seen the previous evening
Time for a rest before we start?
Walking through Mugdock Park - frequented by many dog-walkers
Strathblane Hills
Dumgoyne and Dumfoyne, near the distillery (Bill would have stopped here!)
Signs of things to come - long straight roads!
A clump of daisies to brighten the path . . .
zooming in
Instructions to open the gate??!!
No - not someone's front garden - just a nicely mown patch of ground en route!
The mandatory poppies - to remind Marie of home . . .
taking a closer look
Sandstone Cottages at Gartness . . .
make an interesting feature . . .
with a beautiful display of lupins
A clump of Red Soapwort . . .
followed by colourful rhododendrons . . .
worth a closer look
What's for afters?
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Day 2: Drymen to Rowardennan, 14 mls, 2,054 ft
Again our friendly host gave us a lift back to the route which was a mile
from the B & B. We enjoyed the climb up Conic Hill which is on the line of the
Highland Boundary fault, a massive geological fracture separating the Lowlands
from the Highlands. The views over Loch Lomond were glorious and the camera was
running hot! From the top Balmaha looked most inviting and we were certain we
would find an ice cream shop! Following an interesting descent - off the steep
end - we
quickly reached Balmaha and the anticipated ice cream. The next part of the
route was mainly through forest with some glimpses of the loch. We stayed at the Rowardennan Hotel and
with no other establishments close by decided to eat dinner in the bar -not one
of our best choices!
Heading towards Conic Hill - and looking forward to a bit of climbing
The route up the right hand side can be clearly seen . . .
but we find time for a breather before we head that way
On the way up we are treated to some fine views of Loch Lomond, looking south . . .
and north . . .
and more irresistible shots as we climb higher
Now could that be Ben Lomond (not on our itinerary)?
The line of islands follows the Geographical fault which runs across the width of Scotland from Kintyre to Stonehaven, just south of Aberdeen
Zooming in on Balmaha from the top of Conic Hill . . .
and to the harbour Inchcailloch Island
Relaxing on the summit as we enjoy a coffee break and great views . . .
but all too soon it is time to move on
Safely down following an interesting descent
Did you remember to bring your Teddy Bear?
We find a spot on the shore to try to avoid the dreaded midges . . .
and enjoy the view over the water . . .
whilst watching the antics of the local bird population
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Day 3: Rowardennan to Inverarnan, 13 mls, 1,224 ft
Leaving Rowardennan we found the impressive War Memorial, dedicated to those who
lost their lives in World War 2, before continuing along forest path and by the side of the loch. We arrived
at the Inversnaid Hotel at about lunch time and took advantage of the picnic tables
to eat
lunch. Just before leaving the shores of Loch Lomond we passed the Doune
Bothy - glad we weren't staying there. Diverting off the route to
Inverarnan our B & B, Rose Cottage, was one of the first buildings we reached.
Not overly impressive from the outside we found it to be quite comfortable
inside. The 'not to be missed' Drovers Inn was to be our venue for dinner. In
the words of the guide book this is 'an eccentric mix of smoke-blackened walls,
sagging velvet-covered chairs, moulting stuffed animals with bar staff wearing
kilts and t-shirts.!
Looks like another sunny day in store as we leave Rowardennan
World War 2 Memorial Stone . . .
and from the other side . . .
right on the shore of Loch Lomond
Elevenses - on the Bonny, Bonny Banks . . .
and along the rocky, rocky road
Hey! Wait for me!
The picnic tables at Inversnaid provide the perfect lunch spot (and toilets at the adjacent hotel)
A cheeky chaffinch is on the lookout for his dinner . . .
while we enjoy the views in comfort
Having left the forests behind there are more views over the loch
Crossing one of the many bridges
Doune Bothy - thankfully not our next B & B!
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Day 4: Inverarnan to Tyndrum, 12.6mls, 1,953 ft
No sooner had we got to sleep than we were disturbed by road works just outside the window – flashing lights, noise, etc.
The hostess was most apologetic but there as nothing she could have done about
it. Returning to the route we walked beside the river which wasn't too far from the road. After
a reasonably interesting start we soon changed to military road - stony and
hard. We reached the halfway
point of the whole route just as we entered a forest, again on military tack.
Emerging from the forest we passed a checkpoint 4 for the Caledonian Challenge –
54 miles from Fort William to Ardlui in 24 hours. However most of the walkers
passed through Tyndrum while we were having dinner. Tyndrum Lodge was adequate
though the furnishings, etc were a little tired. Again, with no other venues we
had dinner at the hotel and were pleasantly surprised at the quality of the
food.
Crossing another of the many bridges - all with very little water beneath them . . .
but the rocks show signs of much erosion from wetter times
Zooming in on a passing butterfly
It's no good waiting for the train here, Marie!
Match up the mountains to the picture below . . .
view from the information board
Camping in style at Auchtertyre
An alternative view of the Crianlarich Hills from the kettlehole lochan
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Day 5: Tyndrum to Kingshouse Hotel, 19 mls, 1,665 ft
The tracks today were rather tedious as mile after mile was just the same
underfoot, though it was a little more interesting between Bridge of Orchy and
the Inveroran Hotel. Rannoch Moor was completely different from what we expected. Whilst there was the sense of being more 'out in the wilds'
we were walking on an engineered track all the way - no grassy hummocks or boggy
areas etc to navigate. The last hour was rather wet and whilst there was a bath in the room the
water was not hot enough to take advantage of it. The view from the room was
brilliant, looking towards Buachaille Etive Mor at the entrance to Glencoe.
We saw lots of foxgloves along the route - and a fair number of mountains in the distance
Beinn Dorain, one of the Munros overlooking Bridge of Orchy(3,529ft)
One of the two steel viaducts that carry the railway across the glen
Heading towards Bridge of Orchy
Going underground!
The 1751 bridge over the River Orchy which gave the village of The Bridge of Orchy its name
Looking north . . .
and south from the bridge
Continuing along the route . . .
we are able to see Loch Tulla
Kath prepares for a group shot . . .
and here is the result!
Another view of Loch Tulla . . .
which has the Inveroran Hotel at its head . . .
is overlooked by Black Mount . . .
and has an impressive Victorian Lodge on its banks
Rannoch Moor . . .
and again . . .
another one . . .
and the last one
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Day 6: Kingshouse to Kinlochleven, 9 mls, 1,427 ft
A more leisurely start today as we didn't have far to walk (especially compared
to yesterday). This was a more interesting walk but the Devil’s staircase was
nothing more than a zig-zag path up the side of a valley. There were good views
of the surrounding mountains and Blackwater Reservoir. Arriving early in
Kinlochleven we visited Ice Factor - time to browse and watch climbers before heading for
the B & B at the opposite end of the village. On arrival it turned out that the
hostess was an avid collector of ornaments - they were everywhere - display
cabinets, window ledges, fireplace, etc, etc. In the room there were teddy bears
on the beds and a doll on the chair – these were banished to the cupboard for
the night!
Looking from Kingshouse to the entrance to Glen Coe with Buachaille Etive Mor on the left
Looking back to Kingshouse, the ski area being in the distant centre
Half way up Devil's Staircase
Top of Devil's Staircase with Buachaillie Etive Mor behind the cairn
Taking a break at the top
Surprised to find a clump of wildflowers
Ben Nevis and The Mamores
and again - with walkers
Blackwater Reservoir
Trip, trap, trip trap . . .
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Day 7: Kinlochleven to Fort William
The breakfast at Edencoille was about the best we had on the walk with a great
variety of fruit for continental breakfast, along with cold meats and cheeses,
etc. It rained on and off during the day but more heavily for the last hour. The
route was yet another tedious military track for much of the way and there was a
long road walk at the end. The highlight of the day (apart from the finish) was
a tree felling machine which uprooted or cut a tree, stripped the branches and
bark and cut it into shorter sections. The B & B, Guisachan, was quite
comfortable and had a lounge with a bar and it wasn't far to walk into the
shopping centre to find a suitable venue for a celebratory meal.
Kinlochleven
Loch Leven
There's water in the waterfalls today!
Another cheeky chaffinch . . .
thinking about colour co-ordination
A tree felling machine chops the trees down and strips the branches and bark off all in one operation
Ben Nevis in cloud - is this an omen for tomorrow?
Nearly at the end
Finally there . . .
even if it is raining!
Celebratory meal
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Ben Nevis, 11 mls, 5,000 ft
We travelled to the youth hostel by bus and took the short steep route up to join the
main path. The path climbed gradually to Lochan Meall an t-Suidhe and, with a
light drizzle in the air, we decided to continue without a break. Passing banks
of snow on the way we eventually summitted out - in mist! After a
quick lunch and a few photos - when we could find one another - we headed back down. The path was much rockier than
I remembered – a comment made by others in the B & B - which made it hard
going underfoot. As we reached the road it rained quite heavily and continued
until we got back. Soon after we arrived back we had a phone call from Bill who arranged
to pick us up so that we could join the Fours Group for dinner. It was great to meet up and compare
notes, though they were a little miffed that they had been talked out of
climbing The Ben today!
The Jacobite was preparing for its journey to Mallaig as we waited for the bus
Lochan Meall an t-Suidhe
Loch Linnhe - beneath the cloud
A higher vantage point shows the bend in the loch
One for the album . . .
before continuing up the rocky, rocky road
I think I've found the top . . .
No, I think it's over here . . .
Let's take a closer look . . .
This looks more like it . . .
YES! We've made it!
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